In recent years, the tiny takeout inside the Shell station at the corner of Washington Boulevard and Waterloo Road in Howard County has been as combustible as the fuel at the pumps. At least three taquerias have occupied this real estate, yet the one constant amid all fluctuation has been chef Jose Flores. He’s now the owner of Callejero’s Tacos, which currently occupies the sliver of space inside the station. He’s a traditionalist at heart: soft, fresh tortillas. Classic fillings, such as barbacoa lamb, cochinita pibil and Mexican chorizo. Take-no-prisoner salsas, both red and green. You’ll wait for your tacos here, but they’ll be worth it. 7894 Washington Blvd., Elkridge, Md. 443-620-5952.
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